1. No response when starting up: 1. Check whether the voltage is 220V; 2. Check the fuse inside the lamp; 3. Check whether the switching power supply has output voltage (32V, 12V, 5v): 4. Check whether the circuit board is working normally (indicator light) ; ①. Red is the power indicator light; ②. Yellow is the CPU work indicator; ⑤. Green is the signal work indicator; Correct; 2. Whether the switching power supply has 12V output, and whether there is 12V voltage at the lighting place when the temperature control of the main board is short-circuited; 3. Whether the temperature control switch is open circuit; 4. Whether the output voltage of the electronic rectifier is about 380V at the moment of lighting; 5. Whether the electronic trigger is damaged (replace the electronic trigger to test the lamp); 3. After starting up for a period of time, the lamp automatically resets: 1. The output of the switching power supply is unstable; Touch Xiaoliang, so that there is an automatic reset; 4. The bulb automatically defoams: 1. After the bulb is defoamed, it will automatically light up after a while. Check whether the heat dissipation system is working normally. If the heat dissipation system fails, the temperature in the lamp body will be too high, and the temperature control switch will automatically trip to ensure the safe use of the lamp. When the electronic lighting is turned off, the lamp will automatically light up again when the temperature of the lamp body drops.
2. After the bulb is defoamed, it cannot automatically light up: the problem of the white body of the bulb, the surface of the bulb sphere is white, and the inside is black. After a period of time, the bulb will be defoamed (the life of the bulb is over); 3. Lamps When there is no control signal at K time, the automatic protection of defoaming will also occur, and the light will be turned on automatically after the signal is connected; 5. The bulb is on, and the motor resets normally, but it is not controlled: 1. Check the connection signal (DMX); 2. 3. Check whether the signal IC (75176) is damaged or not; 6. Burn the fuse or trip the power supply when starting up: 1. Check whether the rectifier is short-circuited and the impact current is too large when starting up; 2. Whether the bulb is connected to the ground; 3. Whether the internal high voltage of the lamp is short-circuited to the ground (referring to the case of a grounding wire); 7. The trigger of the bulb is not working, the light cannot be turned on or the brightness is not enough: 1. The working voltage of the lamp is too low; 2. The trigger is faulty ( Replacement): 3. The service life of the bulb has expired (replacement); 4. The electronic rectifier is damaged; 8. The bulb can be turned on but cannot be extinguished: 1. Whether the menu is set to "electronic lighting off"; 2. Whether the temperature control is short-circuited to ground ; 3. Whether the rectifier is damaged; 9. Can light bubbles and can be controlled, but it is not white light after reset: 1. Whether the distance between the Hall element and the magnet is between 2-3 mm; 2. Whether the lamp is zero-adjusted; 10. 1. Whether the motor is short-circuited, causing the IC (3711) to burn out; 2. The main board is damaged; 3. Whether the fixing screws of the gobo wheels and color wheels are tightened; 4. The positioning between the Hall element and the magnet is small Accurate; 11. Channel parts are stuck: The stuck is generally caused by mechanical reasons (except for CMY color chips, when a CMY color chip breaks, causing it to fall off the meter, thus affecting the normal operation of other color chips, this will happen at this time The color chip is stuck) 1. Whether the parts are deformed and caused rubbing; 2. Whether the parts are installed in place; 3. Whether the parts are protruding and causing the stuck; 4. The stepping motor is faulty, causing the motor shaft to be stuck ;12. No display on the display panel: 1. The display panel is damaged: 2. Whether the seven-position cable connecting the display panel is loose or damaged;